Sharka

half of you phaggots have miatas. i want to see the other half. trollolol
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revlimiter
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Re: Sharka

postby revlimiter » 10/25/13 @ 12:57

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Track Dog Racing NA Radical air splitter


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Compared to the small protective splitter Sharka has worn for years. I've made 3 or 4 of this same design and have lately been wanting one with a little more beef to it. And then TDR came out with theirs! I bought immediately.


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Turnbuckle support.


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Ready to get busy.


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Clipped on to hold things together for drilling.


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Extreme overkill. The TDR came with 13 holes. They were almost exactly offset from the 12 holes I was using to mount my old splitter. So I just added the extra holes and put hardware in all of them.


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Ready for mounting on the car.


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Extra support holes drilled around the corner ducts. This keeps things together. The airdam sags otherwise.


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Remove plastic buttons...


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... install turnbuckles!


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And drill holes for the other end of the turn buckle.


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Done!


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Re: Sharka

postby revlimiter » 10/25/13 @ 12:57

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Project-G's newest leather goods.


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The leather is lovely. Not too thick and not too thin. Nice grain. Just right.


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The stitching is more than "just right." It's phenomenal. I've never seen the equal in an aftermarket leather part.


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Black Label.


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I pulled off my few-month-old Redline boot to put on this one from Project-G. It's really all I wanted in a brake boot. The vintage-fit is spot on. Perfectly loose. And the 4 panel construction is perfect. PERFECT. Love this.


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Re: Sharka

postby revlimiter » 10/25/13 @ 12:58

I've been having a lot of excess fuel tank pressure and some gas fumes after a hard drive. I wrote [url="http://revlimiter.net/blog/2012/07/how-to-eliminate-miata-gas-fumes-i-hope/"]a huge blog post[/url] about my research tracking down some of the causes. What phollows here is the cliff notes.


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I bought this little guy to help keep the gas tank cooler. A Thermotec 3' shield. It was recommended by V8 conversion guys who were having to fill up every 100 miles or so to keep fumes under control.


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This is the problem. The bottom of the tank is inches away from the exhaust. Like 2" of clearance. You can see some burned up stuff on the pipe. That was a test run of some weaker insulation. It seemed to help, so I bought the Thermotec blanket.


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I was impressed when I unrolled it. I didn't expect anything like this.


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Nice stitching, nice fasteners, and a ton of huge hose clamps.


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You just lay it on the pipe...


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... add hose clamps...


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... and tighten them down. Nothing to it.


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The 3' shield almost covers the whole midpipe. It goes from the cat to the muffler and provides a bit of shielding even to the diff. It's gotta help.


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I also got into the top of the gas tank and cleaned out the valves.


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This is a pain in the ass with a soft top installed, but oh so easy with the bikini top.


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The little check valve is held in with hose clamps. The rollover valve has 4 screws.

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Both of them got a little carb cleaner. Both should rattle when you shake them. My rollover valve worked. My check valve was borked. I could blow through both directions and there was no rattle. And after my cleaning, it started to work again.


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Bonus tip! These little guys are vastly superior to the multi-toothed carpet pins that hold the package tray carpet in place. I swapped them out for these a few years ago. They're the same sort of pin that holds the carpet to the back wall of the trunk and the plastic panels onto the seatbelt towers. I salvaged all of these sorts of things from my dead 97. Well worth the time it took.
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Re: Sharka

postby revlimiter » 10/25/13 @ 12:58

The Leather Dash Install


Been a long time coming. I brought the dash home last July. That's... 14 months? That's sad. It's time to get it installed.

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I had the crash pad covered in leather. Yeah, "had" as in didn't do it myself. I tried. But my skills fell short. I couldn't get the vent area to be at all decent, so I paid a shop to do it. Well worth it.


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Some hacking to be done.


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A little work with a composite cutoff wheel and finishing with a sanding drum was all it took. Not much work at all.


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Just enough clearance for gauges. That's my crash test dummy boost gauge in there.


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LEATHER! The crash pad looks so good meow. It didn't match at all when it was vinyl.


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The last shot of Sharka's NA8 interior. Never again will that airbag hole darken my doorstep.


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10 minutes later.


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30 minutes later.


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You're outta there!


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New foam on the edge of my NA6 dash to keep rattles at bay. A million thanks to William (black roadster) for this tip.


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Ready to get built up and installed.


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Swapping over the wiring harness. Moving it over was very easy. A little work to tape it to the plastic supports and it's a rattle-free install. But some wiring needed to be created or extended to deal with the new hole locations. Like the power window switch and the extra light housing.


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The first time in 14 months that this dash has been complete. The poor ductwork has sat in my parts shed the whole time. It was filthy.


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One last thing to move over.


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Making holes in the leather was stressful.


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OEM black pop rivets.


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Done!


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Installed


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And bolted in!

After realizing that I had to remove the plastic trim around the windshield, installing the dash was super simple. It just dropped right into place. I did the center bolt first and then all the rest. No problems.
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Re: Sharka

postby revlimiter » 10/25/13 @ 13:02

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I made a nice wiring harness for the gauges. It uses a single OEM plug and connects behind the radio. The boost signal also connects back there thanks to a cheap hose coupler.


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All goop'd up! I couldn't find black silicone so I used blue. Same stuff, different color.


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How it sat for 24 hours. I didn't have any 2x4s handy...


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My new HVAC panel. Slightly different than the standard one I sell, but still quite similar. Since I didn't need to fit it behind the AWD overlay anymore, I had space for the word FLOOR.


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My new radio. Retrosound Model One.


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How the "knobs" interface with the main unit. It's really quite clever.


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It bolts into the dash just like OEM. I just had to slice the brackets slightly to make room for the tombstone mounting clips.


But what to do about the area under the radio?
A cubby?
3 more gauges?
A blank plate?

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I relocated my start button, took care of the extra switches that used to live where my power window switch moved to, and added a clock. :phillyb™:


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With so so so many wires under that radio, I worked hard to keep things clean and sorted.


annnnd..... that's it!

[SIZE="6"][CENTER]
FROM[/CENTER][/SIZE]
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[CENTER][SIZE="6"]TO[/SIZE][/CENTER]
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Love that leather. It adds so much class. The feel and smell don't come through in photos.


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My favorite of all the dash shots.


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My silver grills. Love these. Also, I covered the center bolt plate in leather to match.


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Re: Sharka

postby revlimiter » 10/25/13 @ 13:02

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This is almost a driver's eye view. Not quite. I managed to not shoot one. I sit a little lower and a little farther back. One edge of the voltmeter dial is blocked by the cup bezel but not nearly as much as is blocked in this pic.


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LEATHER. It isn't at all reflective. Like the best dash mat you can ever imagine. :)


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Glovebox bling.


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Small pad detail. This shot kinda sucks. It makes the stitching look like it's in the middle of the pad. It's stitched along the edge that makes contact with the door. None of my pix really show this...


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My new Tombstone.


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Radio area. This is the JDM double-DIN tombstone, by the way. The face plate I got from Retrosound just happened to be DIN sized. Glad I had a tombstone to match it.


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Vroom.


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I prefer this an incredible amount to the version with the metal plate.


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Chrome and stainless steel living happily together.


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I've not had a lighter installed in this hole for a good 10 years. I've already hit it once trying to start the car.


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Elise seat love.


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My back loves this seat. Some days, it's the only comfortable one in the world.


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Gauges!


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Version Stirling, if you were curious.


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M2.


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Those door toppers are gonna need some leather covering soon. They are the only factory vinyl bit left.


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Helicopter shot


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And I'm spent.
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revlimiter
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Re: Sharka

postby revlimiter » 10/25/13 @ 13:03

I'll never finish posting these.
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Re: Sharka

postby revlimiter » 10/25/13 @ 13:03

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This thing didn't stay installed a week before I was sick of it. The chrome was just way too much. It looked so much less shiny in the official Retrosound pix...


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Chrome + single DIN panel are going bye bye in favor of a new piece. I laid it all out in CAD after measuring all of the parts.


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Those 4 pix represent about 2 hours of work. It was a lot of tiny adjustments to get the panel both square and fitting right.


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About 3 more hours of work there to get everything cut out or drilled right.


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Pay no attention to this ABS version. It didn't work. The plastic was gloss black rather than satin and that rough texture didn't match anything. It looked horrible.


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This is how the button is mounted. Notice the black tape? That keeps the epoxy from bonding the button to the panel. That allows me to slide it in and out. It's a tight fit, but I've removed and reinstalled it 4 or 5 times.


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Radio modification. I scuffed it and painted it satin black to match everything else.


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And then I covered the panel in leather and got a perfect match with the rest of the interior! WOOT!


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Huge change is huge.


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That's what I was imagining when I bought the radio. Something that matched the interior and complemented it. Something that didn't call attention to itself, but rather just blended in.
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Re: Sharka

postby revlimiter » 10/25/13 @ 13:04

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About to go under the knife.

So... I got it in my head that I could just cover up that Miata logo and put something else on top. I had the idea of using aluminum tape for it. The sills are aluminum… why wouldn’t aluminum tape be perfect? Ummm…. yeah…. it wasn’t. The tape was a good 100% shinier than the door sill metal. I found this out after carefully cutting out an oval worth. I peeled it off and resigned myself to keeping the Miata script on the plate.

When I peeled off the aluminum tape, the Miata logo started to come with it.

GREAT SUCCESS!

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It just peels off!

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Cleaning it like I was gonna eat off it...

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So clean! Knackered and beat up, but really clean.


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Vintage Mazda sticker applied.

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Some 3M clear bra on top.

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All air, bubbles and everything else removed. It took a while to get it all out, but it was worth it.

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The passenger side.

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The driver's side.

Not much to it really. It was just a tiny project to see if I could re-brand the door sill. meow that I know I can do it, I need to get some creampuff M-edition sills and do it again. Mine are so beat up... but at least they don't say Miata anymore. :)

I need new floormats...
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Re: Sharka

postby revlimiter » 10/25/13 @ 13:05

Version Warbird

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I call these "Version Warbird"


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The design is a lot more restrained than others I've done. Not based on any existing set of gauges in some vintage car or anything. They're inspired by some of the instrument panels found in 50s aircraft, but no aircraft gauge looks quite like these. I tried to keep them as simple and functional as possible. I chipped away a lot of unnecessary design elements and was left with this.

I'm loving them so far! They're my first set of 6 o'clock gauges. I can't believe how many I've gone through and never tried a 6 o'clock zero position before.

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I've also been working on lighting at night. This set has my newest diffuser in it. I've never achieved lighting of this quality before. It's more evenly distributed than even Mazda's own lighting. (I lit up some stock gauges a few days ago for another project.)

Anyways. In another 6 months, I'll probably have another design in Sharka. I'm an addict. lol
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Re: Sharka

postby revlimiter » 10/25/13 @ 13:05

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Ready to kill some cones.


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How to warm up magnetic numbers LIKE A BOSS.


This post is a bit late. Me and Sharka went to an autocross last month. It was our first in like... 4 years. That's embarrassing. I used to attend every Solo event. EVERY one. But time passes and people get busy. At least I managed to get out for this one!

It was a two day event. The above pix are the only ones I got of the 2nd day. We didn't have enough people there to have dedicated photo workers. So I just have pix of the 1st day. But they're pretty outstanding pix. :)


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SO much fun! I need way more rubber to be able to control the power. I might as well have been driving on ice. But it was so much fun! The season is meow over. I hope to attend quite a few more next year.
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Re: Sharka

postby revlimiter » 10/25/13 @ 13:06

So, there I was. Minding my own business. I was at the store to pick up the proverbial bacon and milk. The weather was nice, so I brought Sharka. I hit the start button, put the clutch in, and start to back out. And BAM!!!

I stalled.

I looked around, totally at a loss. I put the clutch in again, to take it out of gear before trying to start the engine, and I notice that there’s very little pressure. The pedal goes to the floor very easily. So I pumped it in hopes that maybe it wasn’t catastrophic clutch line failure like last time. And yay, clutch pressure! So I babied the car on the short trip home. I used the clutch very little, mostly shifting without it. I got home, dumped the groceries, and went right back out in Bucky to grab some clutch parts from the nearby NAPA.

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Removing everything from around the clutch MC.

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Fluid sucked out.

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And the Master Cylinder is outta there! Only 2 bolts and the one banjo fitting hold it in place.

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NAPA's finest Miata clutch MC.

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Bench bleeding the master cylinder.

How to bleed a clutch master:
0: Find a nice big bucket for the fluid to spray and drip into. Also eye protection. Do not skip step zero.
1: Fill reservoir with fluid.
2: Remove cap on the outlet.
3: Using a small rod (a 3/8″ ratchet extension of 6-12″ works great), push the piston into the master cylinder. That will force air out. When the piston comes back, it will draw fluid in. Do this until fluid starts to squirt from the outlet.
4: Replace cap on the outlet. Wipe the MC body dry. Walk back to your car and install it while not dripping any brake fluid on your bodywork.

The goal of bench bleeding is just to get everything wet. You want to get fluid to go through everything. This makes it easier to get bubbles out when bleeding the clutch for real.

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Reinstalled MC. The easy way to do this is to just start the two mounting bolts, but let the MC flop around. Then fully tighten the clutch hard line fitting. Then torque the mounting bolts down.

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NAPA's finest clutch slave.

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Bench bleeding the clutch slave. Again, the goal is just to get everything wet. Gravity works here.

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Removing the old and busted. Singing the praises of my 949Racing braided line. This is my first slave change since installing it. It was really awesome not struggling with the curly-Q line.


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The one on top was Sharka's OEM slave from summer of 1994. It had a good long life.

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My bleeding rig. It has served me well for over a decade.

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Bleeding rig in action!

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My little helper. Her legs might be stubby, but she bled that clutch like a champ.
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Re: Sharka

postby revlimiter » 10/25/13 @ 13:07

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What are these little guys up to? They found an old Miata mirror to play with?


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It has the early window frame mount.

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OOOH! Lights!


I’ve been into these little cars for a long time. As a result, there’s a lot of items over the years that have been on my wish list. This mirror is one. These were sold over a decade ago. I remember seeing them around 2000. They disappeared a few years later. A few shops sold them (I think I saw them at Performance Buyers Club and Brainstorm) but they were never very popular. I assume that was due to the price.

These things used to sell for around $300 each.

That, my friends, is insanity. There is absolutely nothing about this mirror that commands that price. The mount is indeed unique, but it’s an OEM part. That can’t have contributed that much to the price. The mirror itself is a generic item that should also have been pretty cheap. The only unique part is the adapter that connects the OEM mount to the mirror. Can that have been $100 each to machine? Doubtful. I’ve no idea why these used to be so expensive.

Due to the price, these mirrors basically vanished. No one bought them new and no one today remembers they existed. I mean, why try to source a rare Miata mirror when you could hit the junkyard and get a lighted mirror for $6 and an hour’s time digging?

So, I never owned one. I always thought they were cool, but I never spent the money. Also, I had a 97, which would have required the mirror be glued to the windshield rather than mounted to the frame. I always admired these mirrors and their superior lights, but they remained on my mental “wish I had one but doubt I ever will” list.

Until meow!

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And it even works. Or rather, I figured out how to wire it so that it works.


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Plastic mirror trim cover. This was a bear to remove. This was the hardest part of the whole thing.

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Mirror base plate exposed. I later learned that I could have just yanked and pulled the whole thing free.


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Mirror and visors removed, that lets me pull the plastic trim free.


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The A-pillar trim is tricky. You pull the top edge out first and release the 2 metal snaps. Then you slide the whole thing up to avoid breaking the plastic grabber at the bottom.


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This little guy will be the key to getting power and variable ground to the mirror lights.

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I restored both of these switches when I put in the NA6 dash, so I still remembered how they were put together. The switch has a nice metal screw that slides back and forth. I should be able to just attach a wire to it and control the mirror power that way.

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Nothing to it. There's even room for the wire to slide. I tapped into the red wire for power. That just leaves one ground left.


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Wires snaked up the dash and up the A-pillar.


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See the ring terminal on the left? That will ground to the windshield frame with one of the visor screws. That provides constant ground to the mirror. This lets the mirror lights activate with the door plunger, but also allows me to turn them on with the switches on the mirror itself.

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Trim installed. Tiny pigtail sticking out.


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Mirror installed!


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And it even works!


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And here's how it looks in a pitch black garage. This is huge. I've never had usable lights in a Miata before. I'm amazed. Also, this was shot handheld. No tripod. There's a LOT of light in that interior. It's wonderful.

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Love it.


HUGE thanks to everyone who was involved in getting this mirror to me! I didn't mention it above, but this mirror just showed up on my doorstep. Geoff, Kent, and Adam of this forum were all involved in getting this mirror into Sharka. I never expected to own one. Hell, I never thought I'd even SEE one. And meow it is mine. =)
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Re: Sharka

postby revlimiter » 10/25/13 @ 13:08

My day started out like this.
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Why? Because I had something to pick up. Something awesome. And no truck to do it with. I mentioned it to Stoly and he told me to do this. Just take off my hood and go pick up the new one. BRILLIANT!


The Garage Vary Type II extractor hood. Pristine.
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OMGvent.
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A billion thanks to JDMPalace! The hood was packed perfect and had no damage. And to save on shipping, it was sent to my buddy's shop. That's why I had to go get it. Well worth the effort to save about $160 on shipping.

Plus I got a blog post out of it.

And it's on there. No problem!
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JDM rust. And tiny 10mm hardware.
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Vent.
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Hole for hood pins.
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It really is in amazing shape considering how old it is. It might be older than Sharka. At 18 years, that's pretty impressive to me.


It even latched no problem.
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And then I got nuts with the tape.
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Ready to roll home.
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And I got home without any problems. The hood didn't so much as quiver.
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Re: Sharka

postby revlimiter » 10/25/13 @ 13:09

meow for something different... Removal of parts as modification.

Time for a change.
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About to be simplified.
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Something has been bugging me for a month. I got it in my mind to simplify. To make Sharka a bit less. To go back a little bit.

See, I made the mistake of filling my gauge-designing PC’s screensaver with old photos. There’s lots of family pix, lots of toy pix, and TONS of Sharka pix. And as I cut out gauges, I see the pix go past. I watch the Sharka of a year or two ago appear and disappear. I got nostalgic.


The big guns.
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The stripes just melted off.
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This took care of the residue.
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Soundwave is awesome with a wrench.
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Rumble complained the whole time.
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And the result?


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I'm very happy with this. This is what I wanted. Less = more.
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revlimiter
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Re: Sharka

postby revlimiter » 10/25/13 @ 13:10

I made something new for Sharka's interior. :)

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I've been working on this off and on for a long time. I wanted something to match my window switch perfectly. There's some fine options out there, but none were a good match. meow I've got it!

The black anodized finish... it really classes up the place. It's a relatively tiny change, but it makes the whole interior feel... well, awesome. There's hardly a plastic control surface left.


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My new switch is a great match for my black KG gauge cluster too.


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And a matching black anodized window switch. :D
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Mazduh
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Re: Sharka

postby Mazduh » 10/25/13 @ 13:10

Cleanest build in history? My vote yes.
05' Mx-5 w/ bolts ons, ms2e, 650cc injectors, stock turbo @12psi.
Instagram: Mazduh

Stoly wrote:Ever tasted a saltier dick than mine?
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Re: Sharka

postby revlimiter » 10/25/13 @ 13:10

So, earlier, the horn buttons stopped working on my Momo Master. I took it inside for repairs.
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Stressful to peel off the 40 year old leather.
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I didn't expect this. I didn't know what to expect. A micro switch? I was just opening up the horn button to see what was wrong with it.
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70s engineering. That's 2 copper plates and a piece of "rubber" to separate them.
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The rubber was solid. Couldn't press it at all. But it reminded me a bit of a keyboard membrane. So, I tore an old keyboard apart...
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Nearly perfect.
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It works perfectly.
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Making continuity and giving a nice, firm bit of feedback from the 5 keys worth of plungers.
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Time to put the leather back how it should go.
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Good as new.
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New connectors finish the restoration.
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I love this wheel. It feels so perfect in my hands. And the style is so unique compared to the ones being sold today. Glad I took the time to make the horn buttons work again.
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Re: Sharka

postby revlimiter » 10/25/13 @ 13:11

And then Sharka got another set of gauges.
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Version Barcode
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I've wanted to do some 9 o'clock gauges for a while. Finally got a design put together that works well.
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These are sort of an evolution of my Stirling gauges. Very different, but similar in a lot of ways.
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Love my amber lighting.
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Re: Sharka

postby revlimiter » 10/25/13 @ 13:11

I took my daughter for her very first ride in Sharka.
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We went to the mountains. It seemed like a first ride needed to be more than a trip to the store.
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Has a Miata ever looked THIS big?
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We parked and explored the mountains. She collected sticks. I snapped pix.
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Again daddy AGAIN!
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We stopped to pick some flowers after hearing "SUNFLOWER SUNFLOWER SUNFLOWER!" for about 5 turns after passing a patch.
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Sprinting back for more Sharka drives.
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One happy girl.
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It was the very best day of my life. For real. I'm so lucky.
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Re: Sharka

postby revlimiter » 10/25/13 @ 13:12

I live-posted this on Instagram as I drove around town to various filming locations. HUGE response. I gained a few hundred phollowers. I then posted the same thing in my build threads (CR, MR, etc) and folks didn't get it. lol

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[QUOTE=revlimiter;97977]I got up early, hoping to score some Blue. We went to Combo's corner. Nothing.
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Not a teenth to be found.
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We went over to the Railyard for a cash drop.
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We stopped at Gus Fring's Laundry. No lab there anymore, just a smoking hole. And, well, the Laundry.
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No sign of Fring here either. And they changed the sign. Used to say Los Pollos Hermanos.
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At least the sign is still inside.
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Couldn't get into Jesse's old duplex. Someone changed the locks.
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Pinkman wasn't at his house either.
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We went to the Car Wash. Skyler told us to get the fuck out. We obeyed.
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We went here to blow off some steam and shred some tires. Lots of rubber was already in the lot. We added to it.
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The DEA was closed. It was the weekend after all.
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I checked the plant in the lobby. Sometimes there's a dead drop. Not today.
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They converted Tuco's hideout to a coffee shop. Goddamn hippies...
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We paid our respects to Gus Fring.
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Sat on the roof and thought of what to do next.
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Finally we went to the big man's house. I respectfully rang the bell. Heisenberg answered. SCORE!
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Blue Sky at last!
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#BreakingBad
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revlimiter
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Re: Sharka

postby revlimiter » 10/25/13 @ 13:14

My old door panels. They were starting to look a bit cheap to me. A bit past their prime.
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Look at where the dash and door top touch. They don't match. Dark grey leather vs black vinyl. This bothered me for a year. I finally did something about it.
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I'd never recovered a door top. They have these metal things on the top. They pry out.
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Like snake skin, just peels right off.
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Viola! A perfect pattern to trace onto new material. I decided to leave the fluffy material in place to lend a bit of padding. Not sure if that's a good decision or not. If not, I'll just do the door tops over again.
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The new material is left over from the same leather hide that covers my dash. Pay no attention to my daughter's Hot Wheels.
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My work area. Best to do contact cement outside. The fumes are pretty damn strong.
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I started at the spot I thought would give me the most trouble. I removed the padding here to give as much clearance to the crash pad as possible.
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Not bad!
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Love my 97 door tops.
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Next, it was time to do the door card material. Same leather, but with quilting.
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Test square.
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All marked up and ready.
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My silly ass quilting leather. I'd never sewn anything before. Fortunately, I had my mom, a master quilter, on hand to help out, show me what to do, and get things started.
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Nothing to it. The quilting is straighter than the mass market vinyl stuff that used to cover my doors. I'm pretty damn proud. I did about 75% of this sewing myself. However, it wouldn't have been at all successful without my mom's help. I'm a lucky guy.
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Time to get rid of that old vinyl.
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My helper kitty is helpful.
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Mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm!
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A few choice holes.
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Kitty approved!
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FINISHED!
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The leather matches the dash and the quilting matches my Nakamae tunnel cover.
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Perhaps you noticed the door straps? They'll be in my store very shortly.
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So pleased. The door cards are a minor change, but one that really makes a difference.
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revlimiter
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Re: Sharka

postby revlimiter » 10/25/13 @ 13:14

After the Breaking Bad finale, I knew I had one more photo stop to make.
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Heisenberg is everywhere.
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revlimiter
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Re: Sharka

postby revlimiter » 10/25/13 @ 13:16

AND THATS IT. This thread is meow caught up to current.
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revlimiter
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Re: Sharka

postby revlimiter » 10/25/13 @ 13:51

My latest addition to the wheel collection.
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I already had a Prototipo and I didn't really like it. But I was drawn to this one.
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Just a little younger than me.
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310mm. I've never seen a Prototipo this small. And a THICK grip vs the tiny one on the modern wheels.
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The leather is old and shiny. It has cracks. But it feels wonderful. Holding it is an experience.
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And the old leather smell. Like my vintage Polaroid SX-70 cameras. Musty and rich smelling.
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The only problem - it's really damn small. I couldn't see most of my Barcode gauges. Everything from 10 to 80 mph was cut off. And everything up to 5000 RPM was invisible. Action was called for.
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This set of gauges took me 2 hours to design. Much faster than most sets I've done. I started with my 1028 set and just simplified. The needle rotation was dictated by the size of the wheel.
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The Prototipo came out of a Dino 246. I looked up the gauges on google and was charmed by the orange and red zones on the tach. I put the same thing on my new gauges in homage to that car.
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On a whim, I put in the kph scale from my GT-40 gauges and colored it yellow. A year or two of Dino 246 production had this same feature on the speedo.
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I made the tick marks on the small gauges as long and visible as possible. It helps since I don't see a lot of the oil gauge.
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Night mode. I love my amber lights.
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After I remove the wheel in favor of another in my collection, I'll take these gauge faces and put them in another cluster. That way I can swap them out with the wheel.
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It feels so right.
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phillyb™
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Re: Sharka

postby phillyb™ » 10/25/13 @ 13:54

fuck. this thread takes forever to load meow. hahaha

:tits: :tits: :tits: :tits:
don't get caught
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Sploinkin
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Re: Sharka

postby Sploinkin » 10/25/13 @ 14:17

lol I thought the same thing phillyb™ but even on 1.5meg dsl it is worth every minute of foreplay to see Sharka.
phillyb™ wrote:and we still listened. just proving once more that cpb is cooler than your gf
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ThatWhiteBG
Pheels good, man.
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Re: Sharka

postby ThatWhiteBG » 10/26/13 @ 20:33

This thread...

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- That's just the nature of the beach. - マツダ
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CANADAN
lady of the club!
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joined: 10/16/13 @ 13:46
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Re: Sharka

postby CANADAN » 10/29/13 @ 00:05

Awesome to read the thread, you've already won me over seeing I had seen your whole Heisenberg blog post. That was a great added bonus to a sweet car!
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revlimiter
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Re: Sharka

postby revlimiter » 10/29/13 @ 16:24

You didn't expect me to live with the glossy, cracked leather, did you?
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This one corner is what had me curious. It seemed like the glossy stuff was a hard outer coating and soft leather lurked underneath.
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A little robot help and I should be all good to go.
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My tools:
Tandy Leather Fiebing’s Deglazer – This is what I used to strip the steering wheel. (Er… more on that later.) It removes old coating and dye and brings the leather back to “fresh”. Sorta. And it smells horrible. Do not apply in an enclosed room without a good organic philter mask. This was enough to do about 1/5 of the wheel.
Zelikovitz black leather dye – To bring back the black once the wheel was stripped.
Zelikovitz matte top coat – To seal the dye and restore the original finish.
Wool Daubers – I bought a 10 pack. I have 8 left.
Foam applicator – they shipped this to me with the dye. Happy they did as it worked great. The daubers sucked.
Blue painter’s tape – To protect the metal parts.
ACETONE – The same thing as the deglazer. I used it to remove the coating from the wheel. It worked exactly the same as the Fiebing’s above. Very aggressive.
Disposable Gloves – I used about 20 pairs.


All taped up and ready to go. I chose not to remove the QR or horn button. The tape kept them safe.
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So happy I have boxes of gloves around from making gauges.
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One wipe with the deglazer.
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Half stripped.
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Completely stripped. Most of the cracks didn't go all the way through to the leather below.
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Cracks at the top were the worst. I sanded them slightly before moving onto the dye stage.
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WALL-E is an excellent assistant.
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And here is the wheel all dyed back to black. I just used one coat. It looks almost new already.
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A little top coat to seal in the dye.
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Buffing the top coat to get it back to factory-looking leather. It dries very matte and needs some attention.
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Installed!
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Such an improvement. As good as the wheel was before, having refreshed leather makes it that much better. The 70s Momo leather was glove soft and wonderful to touch. The strip/dye process brought that back.
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revlimiter
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Re: Sharka

postby revlimiter » 10/29/13 @ 16:25

Yeah, this post has too many pix.
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Skinny
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Re: Sharka

postby Skinny » 10/29/13 @ 16:37

revlimiter wrote:Yeah, this post has too many pix.


In 30 seconds you'll be dead and I'll be home in time for Corn Flakes.
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phillyb™
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Re: Sharka

postby phillyb™ » 10/29/13 @ 16:39

it's weird. my comp won't even load the pics if i leave the tab open and switch to another one.
it has to be the active tab. hahahaha.

anyway, the wheel looks incredible!

how much does it bother you that the 'prototipo' text isn't 100%?
don't get caught
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ThatWhiteBG
Pheels good, man.
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Re: Sharka

postby ThatWhiteBG » 10/29/13 @ 17:03

Wow, I didn't know that leather could be brought back like that. Well done!
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- That's just the nature of the beach. - マツダ
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Flyin' 92
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Re: Sharka

postby Flyin' 92 » 10/29/13 @ 17:25

Dem mirrorzzz doe…

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Sploinkin wrote:I might be able to handle that little amount of poke. Especially with a little bit of stretch.

God I can't believe I said that.
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revlimiter
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Re: Sharka

postby revlimiter » 10/31/13 @ 16:08

Parts from Rooster. Runabout M2s and a Type1 fuel lid.
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The blue glass is cool. It's rather wide angle. But I wanted NO excuses for the mirrors not working. I got some custom-cut bubble mirrors shipped from China.
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The glass is held in by the rubber ring and a spring. So you just press back on it a bit...
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... and slide the bubble under. BOOM! Looks like it came with convex glass.
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One of the few stock parts I've never swapped out. Just 2 screws.
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It has the OEM skeleton and a shiny top.
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So, I installed the mirrors.
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They looked okay, but there was room for improvement. They look actually pretty good with the hardtop on in these shots. When I installed them, it was warm and no top was on Sharka. The mirrors stuck out like a hangnail. Like they were trying too hard.

I felt they were too bright for the montego paint. They looked great with white, but a modern blue/green color with metal flake... just didn't work. So I had the idea to paint them.

My old NACA duct headlight lid was needing paint too. Actually, it needed to be retired.
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The new hotness.
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Years ago, I designed a NACA duct headlight lid for a 3rd party company (honestly can’t remember the name). I calculated the angles, cut the lid up, and made walls for the duct. I even smoothed the outlet so that there wouldn’t be a large lip for the air to hit. The lid worked with both the OEM lights and the Moss lowpros installed on Sharka. It was pretty sweet.

I shipped the plug off and received this prototype carbon fiber headlight lid as payment. And then nothing came of it. The lid was never put into production. The duct I’m replacing meow was new at the time with fresh paint, so I didn’t swap it out for this carbon one. My prototype lid hung on the wall of my shop for years.

I test fit the prototype and it was perfect. Much better than my bent ’97 lid. I decided to finally get some use out of this part, so I scuffed it up so that I could paint it with the mirrors.

Primer! Sadly, the only paint photo I took. I brought my camera inside after this and forgot about it until I was done.
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Painted.
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There's carbon fiber under there.
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Shiny.
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The paint came out great. Not perfect in every lighting condition at every angle, but very very good. I’d recommend paintscratch.com cans to anyone.

I’m especially happy with the mirrors. They’re so subtle. So understated. They don’t stick out like the factory ones. No more mouse ears. Just these gorgeous, refined shapes. I feel they work with the rest of the body much better than the large OEM models.

The fuel lid… I’m on the fence about it. I like it, but I can see removing it in the future as well. I’m not completely sure. It does work well with the hardtop feet. I’ll probably swap it in and out with the OEM fuel lid. So many cars come with metal lids meow days, it almost seems like a body-color fuel lid is a modification.

And the CF NACA duct lid? Yeah. I’m REALLY happy with this. No more shiny bolts or cloudy carbon. Just a nice looking lid that fits perfectly.


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john90
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Re: Sharka

postby john90 » 10/31/13 @ 18:06

So much easier than your site, no clicking lol. Your car is amazing man, well done. I have to admit I use sharka as inspiration on my own quite a bit
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doubleoh9
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Re: Sharka

postby doubleoh9 » 10/31/13 @ 19:04

i love sharka, and will be hitting you up for another set of gauges to replace my rossas here soon, but did you ever do anything with that hood??
Viva La Resistance!!!
atxsbigwalt
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Re: Sharka

postby atxsbigwalt » 11/04/13 @ 16:51

yea, where's the GV hood??
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phillyb™
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Re: Sharka

postby phillyb™ » 11/04/13 @ 17:17

mirrors look fucking awesome.
that fuel lid...
that's the one i want.
i have an obx, and i wouldn't mind a zoom one, but i like the runabout. shit looks great.
don't get caught

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